Six weeks in Norway.

Well we have finally left Norway. We rolled in from Finland on 14th July and have spent nearly six weeks in this most scenic of countries. The trip has really been about the northern half of the country, as we headed straight south once we had reached Trondheim.

Since our last post from Tromsø, we have traversed about three quarters of the country. After leaving Tromsø, we headed to the Lofoten Islands. These were fantastic, big mountains rising out of the sea, dramatic weather and superb views everywhere you looked.

Our first taste of the Lofotens was a cycle down a fiord called Raftsundet. When you cross this you are on the first of the Lofoten islands. Great weather, views, cycle and ice cream meant a great day was had.

Miles walking in Digermulen

Norway may be expensive, no it is bloody expensive! supposedly one of the most expensive places on earth, £4 for a loaf of bread, need i say more. But to compensate, you can park for the night, free,  pretty much anywhere out of town.

Another scenic free camp!

Backdrop of the Lofotens.

Moving through the islands we stopped at a great campsite at Kabelvåg, near the main town of Svolvær. Pop decided this was the time for a swim in the Artic Ocean. So on with the wetsuit and in she went, brrrrrrrr. Not to cold was the verdict, great scenic backdrop made for a good pic.

Pop ready to swim at Kabelvåg Campsite.

Pop finishing an evening swim in the Artic.

A land of great sunsets.

A website we sometimes use to find good overnight parking had good reviews for a place called Haukland. On arriving we found it was amazing, mountains, sandy beach and views, but obversely the website is well read as it was packed with motorhomes. Still we walked, cycled and enjoyed the area.

Cycling around Haukland, Lofoten.

A beautiful, busy free park by the beach. 

Last of the sun at Haukland beach.

A little onion domed church at Flakstad.

The highlight of the Lofotens, was Reine. When we arrived the weather had turned wet and cloudy, but this presented us with the most dramatic of views. Reine is a collection of islets in a sheltered bay, surrounded by tall, menacing mountains. Well that is how they appear when the weather is bad. The following day the sun was out and we cycled back in and around Reine, and the scene was much more tranquil. Reine, one for the bucket list!

Dramatic scene at Reine, Lofoten.

Reine looking menacing.

Reine in sun, so different.

Dried cod heads, mmmmm.

The last stop before we left the Lofotens was the town of Å (Å is actually the last letter of the Norwegian alphabet). It is scenic, picturesque but a tourist honeytrap. 

Pop in Å.

Miles in Å.

Å.

Sunset from the van in Bodø.

We left the Lofotens on the Moskenes to Bodø ferry. Bodo was the start of the Kystriksveien (the coastal route) a 650km drive down the coast to near Trondheim. This involved 7 ferries and many tunnels. The first challenge on our 'list' was the 'Stairway to Heaven', a climb of over 300m, up 1129 steps that are fixed to the side of a mountain. It sounded daunting and was, in parts it was as steep as a later and the only way down was backwards. Still, took us about 45 minuets to get up, though at times felt like my heart was going to explode. The view from the top was worth every step.

Pop climbing the 1179 steps.

Miles, top of the climb.

As we drove we passed islands, lakes, glaciers and endless mountains.

Svartisen glacier.

On one of the ferry trips we had to take that, connect the route together, we passed back over the Artic Circle. The nights now here and drawing in!

Crossing the Artic Circle, heading south.

The next on our list was to climb one of the Severn Sisters. A range of, strangely, severn mountains, all in a row. We chose a climb one that was 'accessible to families with children', well in Norway i am sure they would send their kids up Everest if they could. The climb was steep, sometimes slippery and involved a lot of time wondering how we were going to descend. It was fun, hard and spectacular (the pics unfortunately don't do it justice), a good five hour walk.

Pop climbing one of the Severn Sisters

One of the Severn Sisters.

Another great campsite view.

The last hit on our list was Torghattern, a mountain with a hole in it. I kid you not. Great views and very weird. I am of course calling it the Polo mountain.

A hole in a mountain.

Great views from the 'hole'.

Pop enjoying the view.

Torghatten, the mountain with the hole.

At Trondheim we drove down to see a friend of Poppy's in Oslo. We had a great day seeing parts that only a local could show us. We have now left Norway and are heading south. The weather is improving and we are heading for a big show in Dusseldorf at the beginning of September, then further south. Back with more later.  

The moon at sunset.

Sunset, colour 1.

Sunset, colour 2.

Sunset, colour 3.

Viking longhouse.

A Stave church.

Groot parked by the beach, Norway.

Update from Tromso.

August has arrived and I find myself alone in Tromso, North Norway.
What, alone, has Pop finally come to her senses and left you? No, fortunately she is still in a delusional state. The reason is a sad one, Steve Poppy's brother has had a bad motorcycle accident and is in intensive care at Bristol Hospital. Pop has flown back for a few days. Latest news is that he is making slow, small improvements. Hopes and thoughts going out to Steve, get better soon.

Steve & Pop

So until Pop flies back I am camped just outside Tromso, a big town, built on an island, still north of the Artic Circle.
Since the last post we have made our way here from Nordkapp, via Hammerfest, Alta and some stunning scenery. The drive takes you around the coast, hugging fiords or following rivers. Mountains abound, many still with snow on them. Waterfalls seem to be everywhere, the snow is constantly melting, the water in the rivers, fiords and along the coast is so clear.

Hammerfest was the first decent sized town we saw since leaving Sweden. It touts itself as the most northern town,  population of 10,000. Though as you travel south every larger town claims the same statistic! Hammerfest was interesting, the Royal and Ancient Polar bear Society, and great cultural centre (where we went to the movies, in English with Norwegian subtitles) and great Reindeer steaks.  All this topped of by a great campsite next to a lake. Liked hammerfest, would recommend.

Strange follies

Lots of interesting churches.

Another cracking scenery filled drive (get the feeling Norway is going to provide one of those every day😀) took us to Alta, an even bigger town (20,000 and also laying claim to largest northern city). The main tourist highlights here were the Alta museum with its rock carvings, and the Alta canyon. We hit both, with mixed results.
The museum and the rock carvings were good. The rock carvings were made between 6000BC and a few hundred AD. Some had been painted in, which made them easier to see but this practice has been stopped. A good exhibition on the local wildlife and area rounded of a full day, and as a bonus we camped in the museum carpark (with about half a dozen others).

Rock carvings.

Protect the innocent.

The next day we went to walk to the Alta canyon. A good drive up a gravel track brought us to a small carpark where we spied a GB plate. Douglas and Christine, 2 Brits long terming in their van came and said hi, and after a chat we decided to do the walk together. A good 12km round trip, crossing a couple of rivers,  took us to the deepest canyon in Northern Europe. Fantastic views and well worth the sometimes boggy walk. Downside, bitten to hell, and spent the best part of a week itching like hell.

Alta Canyon.

A few days of driving through yet more great scenery, we came to Tromso. (Pop; 67000) Built on an island, within a bay of islands, it is a great spot. Modern, friendly and off course pricy. Most interesting thing, to me at least, is that they have tunnelled through the large hill that forms the island, and as you drive through you come to roundabouts! not just one but three or four, each with three or four exits, amazing.

Built all in wood.

The local cathedral.

Anyway since dropping Pop of at airport i've been cycling around, sorting out the van and chilling'. Going to pick Pop up today and then head for the Lofoten Islands and a long meander south. More pics and news later.

It's a hard life!

Snow capped mountains.

Lots of islands.

When parking the van for the night, find shelter from winds. Any cliff will do!